Well, Spring & Trough - A 28mm Terrain Article

flintloquelogo-reduced-300x90 Architecture of Valon

Modelling Materclass: A 28mm Scale Building

"Well, Spring & Trough"

208

In producing these Masterclasses I have hopefully passed on some useful tips and inspiration to budding terrain builders.  For me the benefit has been two-fold; first I am increasing my stock of Flintloque terrain and secondly I am able to build a wide variety of different themed models.

Some time ago I decided to build a water trough and hand pump model, see here and here.

When I was researching different colour schemes I came across a couple of images that showed a French water pump and natural water spring.  The photos showed a small stone built house with a granite trough to the front and a water pump to the side.  I decided that this was the model I wanted to build for this Masterclass.

As usual I started with a simple sketch.

214

The basic structure is a couple of pieces of Blue Foam glued together and onto which I have first sliced layers and then ‘opened up’ the joins with a sharpened pencil.

093

097

The rear I modelled an opening for a simple wooden door.

100

The trough is attached to the main building with uPVA glue and reinforced with a couple of steel pins pushed through at an angle.

103

The original structure has a carved stone water feed or spout that brings the spring water flowing into the large granite trough.  This I built from strips of plastic card, glued with superglue and then carved and sanded to shape. It was glued to the Blue foam with superglue.

104

To give the model some strength I attached it first to a piece of pizza-base foam onto which I had carved some random paving slabs.  This was then superglued to a 3mm thick piece of plastic card (the sort that is used as For Sale signs).  I tend to cut the plastic card into a rough oval and then chamfer the sides with a snap-off bladed knife before sanding the edges smooth.

110

109

The groundwork has been built up with DAS modelling clay, which I apply over a thin layer of uPVA glue.

117

My next project was to build the old-fashioned water pump. I started with a piece of 3mm plastic card onto which I had both carved and impressed wood grain.  This will be the mounting for the metal pump and once finished was attached to the side of the building with superglue.

119

The pump is built up from various pieces of sprue, plastic tube, a knitting needle and some scraps of plastic card. The operating lever is a straight piece of plastic card which I have gently curved with my fingers to give the traditional bow-shape.  All construction was carried out with superglue.

120

122

On the other side of the building I added some resin and white metal castings; a barrel, a basket of fruit and a bowl of what I think is bread. Each of these additions will add interest when it comes to painting, these were superglued down and the groundwork built up with DAS.

126

You should also be able to see that I have cut back the base, taking about 10mm off all around. I felt that the base was a little too large for this small piece of terrain.  In addition I have ‘defined’ some of the stones and paving slabs with Milliput.

125

The door to the rear was built from plastic card suitably distressed and glued with superglue.

127

The roof went through various designs until I decided upon a small four-sided ‘pagoda’ style which was first built from cardboard and then built up with Milliput.

133

The roof tiles are small rectangles of artist’s paper glued with uPVA glue and superglue.

139

The flashing is strips of foil saved from some expensive bottle of wine and the decorative spike is a section of cocktail stick mounted onto a small wooden bead.  Once again I have used Milliput to fill any gaps and strengthen the edges.  There are also four small protruding beams (one to each corner) that were built from 5mm thick plastic card and textured with a scalpel and a Dremel.

151

Finally the base was textured with sieved stones, coarse sand and fine sand sprinkled over uPVA glue. My preferred technique is to paint the base with watered-down uPVA glue, then sprinkle some small stones over the glue.  Next I sprinkle some coarse sand and finally I add some fine sand.  By building up the texture like this, I find I can be more selective on how much I apply.

155

For the painting I was tempted to try yet another technique.  I first painted the entire model with a cheap cream coloured acrylic paint. Ensuring that I covered the model as best as I could.

163

Next I added some Snakebite Leather to individual stones with a fine-pointed detail brush.

166

Then Deep Red mixed with Brown.

169

Then three different greys.

172

I washed the whole model with a watered-down Dark Brown acrylic paint that helped to ‘blend’ the stonework together.

176

Once fully dry I drybrushed all of the stone work with greys, browns and even pure white acrylic paint.

180

The Groundwork was painted Snakebite Leather and the cornerstones painted with a Snakebite Leather/Badmoon Yellow mix.  I was trying to get a honeyed or Cotswold stone effect.

184

Painting continued with a drybrush of Snakebite and Skull White to the groundwork, some highlighting on the corner stones and a dark brown covering on the underside of the overhanging tiled roof.  I also painted the water in the through Black – a basecoat for future layers of blue.

188

In the original illustration the water pump was painted a pale blue.  I choose to paint the model in Green, starting with a dark green and highlighting up to a colour called Apple Green.  The tiled roof was painted grey (but with some added Blue and green to add variety).  Once dry the roof was drybrushed with grey.

191

199

The painting progressed with some more detail painting – highlighting individual stones on the building and the base, as well as painting the roof decoration.  The water surface was painted with Midnight Blue, then Enchanted Blue to give an effect of depth.

195

Finally the whole model was varnished with Galleria matt varnish, the water highlighted with Klear (Future in the US) and the base was both flocked with railway scatter material and a couple of static grass tufts.

200

201

203

This photo show the finished well with a converted Flintloque figure for scale.

208

And finally an image of all three wells/troughs.

212

Coming Soon

"Witchlands Hovel" - Tony creates another building for you, a wooden hovel, suitable for any wargames table.

Related Articles

  larry0   camping0  cabbage0


Add comment


Security code
Refresh

Reader Poll

Which Alternative Armies or 15mm.co.uk game would you most like to see content for here on Barking Irons?
 

News and Tattle

News and Tattle is the Barking Irons news feed that covers all the game systems featured by Alternative Armies and 15mm.co.uk as well as some that are in development. It's not just the games themselves but miniature releases, rules updates, downloads and much more.

Click here to find out all manner of things that you might just find of interest.

Painted-Miniature.com

A sister brand to Alternative Armies and 15mm.co.uk , Painted-Miniature.com is a one stop shop for all your pro-painted miniatures. No waiting, anything you see on the site you can order straight away with free shipping to anywhere in the world !

Click here to visit Painted-Miniature.com right now.

The Notables

Alternative Armies and 15mm.co.uk games have engendered a thriving online community. 'The Notables' Yahoo group is the official forum of Alternative Armies and 15mm.co.uk. Have any questions about your game or wander if there's any players in your area?

Click here to head over to 'The Notables' Yahoo Group right now.

Copyright © 2013 Alector Ltd, Barrhill Road, Girvan, Scotland, KA26 0QD. All Rights Reserved.